Like most intrepid travellers, I fantasised about sleeping under the stars on the world’s highest freestanding mountain, and the African skies didn’t let me down, but the reality is, it’s cold, I’m talking minus 15 degrees cold, the ground is rock hard (well, it is a mountain!), and the air is thin… so thin that you find yourself waking up with a gasp. And so sleeping on Kilimanjaro is no easy task.